In 2020, during the Coronavirus pandemic, my family of four decided to walk 100k/60 miles on the Camino de Santiago and it was our favorite experience in the last 2 years of living abroad. In this post you’ll find the following to help you prepare for your Camino with Kids or Covid Camino as I give some insight as to the advantages and disadvantages to being a pilgrim in 2021. My children were age 9 and 11 when we completed this adventure and I’m giving you all of the ways to make your family Camino a success.

Click on the following to jump to a section or scroll down for the complete guide:

Prepping Your Kids and Family

LETTERS OF ENCOURAGEMENT

I wrote an email to some family and friends asking them to write a letter to our kids. Kind words, encouragement, stories of when they overcame challenges, etc. I gave my kids a couple of these letters each morning once we started our walk and we read them aloud. It was so fun to hear from our favorite people and to have them on our mind that morning as we walked and reminisced. Each morning the kids couldn’t wait to get on the trail and read their letters. This is much better as a surprise – the novelty is why it worked.

READ UP

The Pilgrims Guide to the Camino de Santiago by John Brierly is a great resource for understanding exact places to stay, kilometer distances between stops, insider info, and much more. It was my Camino Bible – sorry St. James. There are lots of books and websites but Brierly is THE man.

PHYSICAL PREPARATION

As a part of our daily routine my kids walk about 5 miles to school and activities as we live in the city without a car. On vacations we usually walk 6-8 miles a day exploring. If your children have never walked consistently, I would suggest going on some lengthy walks a few times as practice and endurance building.

EXPECTATIONS

It’s important to be transparent about taking this trip to set expectations. It’s not like going to the beach or Disneyworld so I never even called it vacation or a trip. I always called it “The Camino” as it is a distinctive experience. The Camino is history that you can experience – it played a huge role in the spread of Christianity and is a pilgrimage that has been around since the year 800. Be positive but explain to your kids that it’s about nature, walking, being together, and meeting people.

YES THEY CAN

If you plan on walking about 13k-16k per day your kids can do it. This is half of what the normal stages of the Camino are but don’t worry, it’s as far as their little feet can go without melting down in a day. Remember that if they tire, you can always call a cab to pick you up. Don’t stress about the kids, they will surprise you. Stay positive and excited and they will take your cues.

It’s so much more than “Just” a hike

I assure you that no hike has the history, camaraderie, vistas, diversity, and mystique like the Camino de Santiago. People travel all over the world to make this walk for a reason. It’s special. It is a 790 kilometer (490 mile) trek from the Pyrenees Mountains in France to the town of Santiago de Compostela in west Spain. This pilgrimage route has been around since the 8th century and it has been walked by kings, queens, popes, presidents, and chancellors.

I can’t adequately describe why this walk is so much more than a hike. I went with the lofty expectation of “finding myself” and to completely unplug. On my 50 mile solo journey, I think I more surprised myself more than found myself. It was more than I expected in a hundred little surprising ways. Just when I felt lost, a little yellow arrow got me back on track. Please go see for yourself and do not hesitate for a second to bring your kids… or your dog! They will get a “perrogrino” passport;) Just make sure to check that your albergues accept pets.

Of all of the things we have done as a family – this trip was ALL of our favorites. Not Paris, Croatian catamarans, or Norway’s fjords – the Camino. Your guide book will attempt to prep you for the myriad of emotions (or lack-thereof) as you hear the famous bagpipes playing at the Cathedral of Santiago, marking the end of your journey. I cried it was over. This journey was one of teamwork and quality time that means more to me than I could possibly recount in a post.

What to Pack

Don’t be suckered into buying expensive gear, it’s not Kilamanjaro, you’re walking on mulch/dirt trails and roads. Kids grow out of things way too fast so try and borrow from friends where you can. I tried on hiking shoes from name brands like Solomon, North Face, etc and ended up with a great pair from Decathlon (similar to Old Navy in the US) that were way more comfortable. Comfort is all you care about.

For each individual in the family bring:

Rain jacket with hood
Walking/hiking shoes (both of my kids wore tennis shoes that they already had because they were comfortable and broken in) Don’t get boots – they’re not necessary and too heavy. Make sure to break your shoes in for at least a month before you take them.
3 pairs of good quick dry socks (two thick and one thin)
Flip flops or sandals (these are a non-negotiable! If you have blisters these will save your life. You will not want to wear your hiking boots after you take them off at 3pm, plus they need to dry)
1 thermal long sleeve shirt
1 hiking short sleeve shirt
1 light zip-up jacket or sweatshirt
1 cotton short-sleeve tee
1 cotton long-sleeve tee
2 sports bras if applicable
3 “quick drying” pairs of underwear (not cotton)
waterproof gloves
2 pairs athletic pants or leggings (ladies…ideally one of each)
1 pair of waterproof/rain pants
1 beanie/hat
toothbrush
camino shell (if available)
Camino rock

For the family to share:

2 liter water bladder (kids don’t want to carry their water bottles and this is the perfect solution for everyone. Fill it up in the morning and put it in the day pack)
Very small day packs (one per adult for snacks, water, shedding layers, and credenciales)
Letters for kids (see above)
microfiber towel
earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
phone charger/s
kid-friendly energy bars (2x person)
Neosporin
bandaids
Ibuprofen
Sleeping aid
2 ziplock bags
tide pod/detergent pouch
Guide Book

Camino Vocabulary – Know the Lingo

A few words to know before you go:

PEREGRINO– anyone walking the Camino. In English, Pilgrim.

“BUEN CAMINO” or “GOOD JOURNEY” – a greeting you’ll hear from other pilgrims and locals

COMPOSTELA – a certificate you’ll receive if you walk the last 100k of the Camino or bike the last 200k of the camino

CREDENCIAL – the passport (paper and/or digital in 2021!) that you’ll collect stamps in from local albergues and cafes to validate your journey and earn your Compostela. Reminder to get 2 stamps per day if you want your Compostela.

ALBERGUE OR INN – these are small hotels/hostels, usually with cafes, that will give you stamps for your credencial, food, drink, a cheap bed (bunks or singles), and the best conversations

DONATIVO places to stay that are based on donations. Usually these are run by nuns or the church if it’s a sleeping donativo. There are also food/rest donativos who set up coffee, juices, and snacks and leave out a jar for you to contribute.

Our Covid Camino

What was the Camino de Frances like in Covid times? Different and great. For anyone looking to do make this journey to escape the Coronavirus – it’s entirely possible and there are lots of advantages to a Corona Camino. If you’re wondering “are things open?” the answer is “enough to thoroughly enjoy your walk”.

ADVANTAGES:

Normally, the last 112 kilometers of the Camino is very busy: long lines to get coffees or lunch and people constantly on the trail just ahead or behind you. While being amongst pilgrims is invigorating and interesting – it’s a nature and bonding tradeoff that I’m glad we got to experience. We could sing loud, be goofy, and enjoy ‘just us’ without the crowds. Our conversations with other pilgrims and townspeople was deeper and our connection to nature also felt more profound.

There were no children on the Camino for our kids to talk to and I’m listing this as an advantage because they felt so proud of themselves and the novelty of a kid on the Camino was a welcome sight for locals and fellow walkers. They could run up and have their Credenciales stamped quickly and we were back on the trail. We never had to wait to be served or to use the bathroom.

DISADVANTAGES:

It was sad to see villages that normally rely on Camino pilgrims as a source of income to be completely closed. That said, you will have to bring lots of snacks and prepare for picnic lunches as about half of cafes and albergues are closed – there are not enough pilgrims to justify keeping the lights on. This never posed a problem for us as we would just continue on and eat at the next stop.

Because lots of albergues and hotels were closed, you’ll need to plan your route and reserve your stays ahead of time. If hotels list “restaurant on site”, make sure to check that they’re indeed serving food.

ENTERING THE CATHEDRAL:

The pilgrim mass at the Cathedral in Santiago has limited occupancy. Get in line early to enjoy the incredible interior of the cathedral for a mass.

The Camino Frances has about 50% of cafes and albergues open. I heard from other pilgrims that the Camino Norte was almost completely closed until they reached the town of Arzua, where Norte meets the French route. I met a man who walked from Sevilla virtually alone as almost everything was closed. In my opinion, 2021 is the year to catch the French route as it will likely go back to feeling “over touristy” in the near future as it’s sometimes criticized for.

In short, there’s enough open and enough pilgrims on the trail to get an amazing Camino experience. If you can do a Covid Camino – do not hesitate.

Tips and Tricks

WAKE UP!

The normal pilgrim “rhythm” is to get up around 7am and end with a normal Spanish lunch around 2pm. While you will not be able to do this with kids – you should still aim to wake up around 8 and be on the trail by 9. No need for a big breakfast as an “almuerzo” or morning snack will be fun to look forward to at around 5k when you take your first break.

NO PHONES

We tried to only use our phones for pictures. We kept calls to a minimum, zero emails, social media, etc. There were a few times our kids wanted to chat with their grandparents and it was a great time for them to walk and talk – a welcome distraction when they were losing steam at 2pm.

This was precious time together and it flew by. I’m glad we kept our eyes on the countryside and not screens.

PACK SNACKS

Most cafe stops have olives, tortilla de patata, and toast with tomato – this selection is the Spanish standard and feels repetitive after day three. Pack fruit, nuts, and treats that will be nutritious and something to look forward to. Plop down in a field and enjoy a snack break.

STAY AT A HOME STAY

Two of our favorite nights were at home stays. This is a great way to get your kids interacting with locals as they will be completely doted on. Think B&B for pilgrims. You will call the homeowner and they will pick you up for free from wherever you are on the trail and drop you off the next morning wherever you’d like to resume. They cook dinner for you from their garden, light a fire, and pour you a gin and tonic. We met kind people and got to see a bit of the countryside that was off the path. I highly recommend both of our home stays: Casa Roan and Casa Lucas.

GO AHEAD OF YOUR FAMILY IF POSSIBLE

My amazing husband knew that I wanted a solo Camino experience so that I could find myself and all that spiritual hooey;) I spent 5 nights on the Camino alone and I treasured this time. There’s something about the quiet, friends, and the challenge that make being alone, longer than a 10 minute shower, extra special. Meeting up with the kids and hubby at the 100km mark is a memory I cherish. If you can arrange this – do not hesitate. It’s the best of both worlds.

PLAN YOUR STAYS AHEAD OF TIME

The Camino, like lots of European hotels, does not cater to families. Most beds are single and most rooms are for 2 people maximum or are sleeper dorms of 12 people. If you pre-plan your stays it’s a guarantee that you can all sleep in the same room and avoid decisions made in hanger and desperation. Remember, you can always call a cab but you can not always find an albergue for 5 people!

SEND YOUR BAGS

For only 3 euro per bag, you can have a van drop your bag to your next destination. Simply put a tag on your bags from the reception area and have them packed and in the lobby by 9am. They will magically be waiting for you in your next hotel room. Don’t even TRY to carry your pack with your kids – you’re walking painfully slow and just taking it on and off your back to get a sip of water for the 59,000th time will make you crazy. This is a very common service and there’s a reason why.

Choosing Your Route and When To Go

June, July, and August are hot which means you’ll have to get up early to beat the sun. Spring and Fall are highly suggested as there are less crowds and cooler temps. Our mid-October Camino was absolutely perfect. The leaves were turning and the occasional hour of rain was always brief and refreshing causing a gorgeous mist in the valleys.

We walked the French Way, or Camino Frances, and I chose it for it’s popularity and the frequency of stops available for the kids. I have traveled through many of the towns on the northern Asturian coast of Spain (Cudillero, Luarca, and Ribadeo) and it is simply gorgeous. However, especially with the recent closure of cafes, bars, and albergues and considering kids – there is really no better choice than the French Way.

Our Itinerary + Where To Stay

Day 1

From the 100k mark (dropped off in a taxi) to Portomarrin is a steep downhill. Toes banging in the front of your shoes for 2 miles means stop and take in the views as you descend into the cool port town of Portomarin. We loved Casa San Nicolas. Kitchenette, laundry, modern everything and a great central location by an outfitter shop and cafe. Highly recommend.

Day 2

Portomarin to Ventas de Naron was another beautiful 12k day with shade and sun. We loved our home stay at Casa Roan. Plenty of space to get some distance from each other and rest – they have a family room that has two separate bedrooms with a shared bath. Beautiful grounds and more food for breakfast and dinner than you could ever eat.

Day 3

Ventas de Naron to Palas del Rei. While the city of Palas del Rei was my least favorite, we really enjoyed the Apartamentos Turisticos Guillermo. Clean, super spacious, and right next to a grocery store this apartment had a lovely balcony view of the sunset and a soaking tub for my weary tootsies. 3 bedrooms and a huge living room mean you can all get some space.

Day 4

Palas del Rei to Melide was a 15k day that got tough at the end as our Apartmento Rosaleda is on the western side of the city – the last 3k we were really dragging. Luckily the apartment was fully-equipped, large beds, and really clean. Melide has the famous pulpo and this apartment is close to both famous locations.

Day 5

Melide to Ribadiso was our second home stay at the gorgeous Casa Lucas. We had our own separate home with 2 beds and 2 baths and the dinner prepared by the owners was local and fantastic. We played games by the fire and had hot chocolate – highly recommend.

Day 6

Ribadiso to O’Pino should be 20k but I had the Casa Lucas owners drop us a bit closer to shave off a bit of the trip. We had a splurge day which proved totally worth it! The gorgeous, modern, 5 star Vila sen Vento felt like a luxury vacation – nothing rugged or pilgrim about it. It was worth the splurge – hot tub, adorable modern design, and incredible linens.

Day 7

O’Pino to Santiago de Compostela

We were scheduled to have one more night but there were talks of closing Santiago so we decided to head straight to the Cathedral. Nothing beats the location and look of this apartment. The owner is extremely communicative and the fridge and pantry are well stocked. Extra touches were everywhere. Book this one: La Casita de la Catedral

Day 8

Enjoy Santiago de Compostela

I’m so glad we arrived a day early. On our final day we could relax without feeling rushed, bask in our own glory, take pictures by the Cathedral, and not put on our hiking shoes! We loved the city and 1/2 a day would not have been enough to enjoy it at a relaxed pace.

Day 9

Fly Home